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Serge Valentin, whiskyfun.com, 18/07//2021: Apparently, the name Le Têtu (Mr Stubborn) refers to the ninety-year-old owner/distiller. In French, we sometimes joke and say those lovely people are 'têtus comme des barriques' (instead of bourriques, which means mules). Do you understand me? Yep that's part of the French paradox; now careful, they usually own old shotguns filled with rock salt. And naturally, this is a 1957. Colour: golden amber. Nose: we're really striking gold today. This time we're having a huge bag of all kinds of raisins produced by Man (sultanas and all the others) plus dried figs and litchis/longans. Then some fantastic lightly savoury notes, bouillons, satay sauce, korma… And perhaps some beach sand, damp chalk… This is a pretty intriguing development towards coastalness. No oysters though. Mouth: still rustic, in a marvellous way. Pear skins, vieille poire, even touches of raw cider, then a wide range of earthier raisins and figs, some caramel, old rancio (try the old Rivesaltes from France – the price for a good rancio is… 10€ a bottle, which is a crying shame! Many people talk about rancio in cognac without even knowing what rancio really is). Some chocolate liqueur, earth, pinewood, overripe bananas… But no over-woodiness whatsoever. Finish: love this finish – sadly it's the finish – with a lot of citrus in all their guises plus some tiny aromatic herbs, especially wormwood. Someone may have poured a few drops of absinth into this glory. Comments: Mr Stubborn? Well two can play at this game… SGP: 561 - 91 points.
Ruben Luyten, www.whiskynotes.be, 15/03/2021: Cognac Jean Aubineau 1957 ‘Le Têtu’ – Grande Champagne (47,3%, Malternative Belgium 2021, 50 btl.) Nose: very fruity. Apricots, quinces, damsons. Orange oil. Peonies and a whiff of potpourri. Light herbal notes and mint tea in the background. There’s also a slightly darker side, with a hint of caramel and earthy tobacco, maybe cedar, and wildflowers. Elegant, not too thin, really good. Mouth: oily start, with a fine texture. Oak spice and tobacco at first, then some mentholated notes, and once this clears, a lovely fruitiness! More tropical now, including a hint of passion fruit. Some aniseed and Jaffa cakes towards the end. Finish: medium, slightly more rustic. Some oak spice, mint and cocoa but never drying. Quite wonderful. It hits the sweet spot between a thinner, fruity style and a more rustic, darker profile.
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